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GregInJapan

Japan As I See It

Friday, December 30, 2005

It's the end of the year as we know it,

And I feel fine.

Tonight I am going to party Southern style, if the advertisments hold true. One of my co-workers is from Atlanta, and found a place that serves southern cooking--- well, at least the Japanese version of "Southurn Cookin".

Oh? What is this beast, you ask? What makes up this curious idea, this peculiartity of food preparation? Well, Southurn Cookin (and, that is really the way to spell it if you are going to be true to form about it) is most notably: Gumbo, scrapple, grits, fried everthing, lotsa grease, chitlins, ham, more chitlins, collard greens, ham, Pepsi-baked ham (and, I wish I could be joking on that), fried corn, cornbread, corn muffins, pork, ham---ok, you get the picture. Top it off with chicken fried steak, and that is the glorious cuisine that we call Southurn Cookin.

But, at last report, the "Voodoo Wings" offered on the menu were as bland as can be, and expensive, to boot. If you are going to call something "voodoo" my opinion is that it must have so much garlic and vinegar in it that you have to be bewitched to eat it (or believe it, as in the case of Voodoo Economics).

Nevertheless, this is where I will count down my New Year. Then, on to Tokyo, so if you don't hear from me in a while, fear not, I will return with more to tell. I will be travelling on the Shinkansen, the bullet train, and will have at least something to tell about that. So, until then, have a happy, safe new year, and I hope it is good for all of us in 2006.

Thursday, December 29, 2005

Well, at least they weren't selling what was in the truck.

When I first came to Japan a few months ago, I would occasionally here a pre-recorded, happy sounding jingle, which seemed to eminate from a vehicle of some kind. I presumed it was a vehicle, as the sound would get louder and then wane, in the same way a siren would from a police car or ambulance. Being fresh and un-used to my new home, and certainly not fluent enough to understand the song, I thought it might have been Japan's version of an ice-cream truck, because it had that same kind of music.

The other day, I heard the same jingle. "Well, that's weird, why are they selling ice cream in this weather? It can't be ice cream, I wonder what it is?" I sallied forth, to find the origin of the cheery song, and found it.

It was a garbage truck.

Sunday, December 25, 2005

Merry Christmas!

This year was the first time I have ever had to work on Christmas day, and I will also be working the next two days before I get to have a break for the winter. But, Christmas eve was not so bad. I went to work, early morning, and then went to Murphy's for Christmas dinner. Mick, who runs the place for his sister and her Japanese husband (who now owns a sushi restaurant in Dublin) somehow scored four turkeys, and roasted them early morning Saturday. Turkey is not a very common bird around here in Japan. While chicken is easy to find, and rather cheap all things considered, turkey is, well, a rara avis.

However, he got the stuff, and made it with veggies, stuffing, VERY good gravy, and mashed potatoes. It was almost like I was at home, with the execption that it was a smaller portion, no cranberries, and no Mom or Dad. I sat around the bar talking to a man I had met by chance while doing my homework in a cafe. An Australian, who had been working for a few months under the table in Korea, Anthony was forced to get his visa at the Korean Consulate here in Osaka, so as to be legit back in the Land of the Morning Calm. He was passing by, saw me, reasoned that I had the look of someone who was not completely lost, and asked me about O-town.I helped him as best I could, pointed him in the direction of the internet and a good bookstore, and told him about Murphy's. He had not counted on there being a public holiday on Friday (the Emperor's birthday, and unlike the British, who have a set day as every Monarch's natal observation, it is Akihito's real date of birth), and was stuck an extra few days.

Had a few drinks there, then headed over to Mass at the Cathedral. The main ministry, I believe, is not to Japanese, but to the Filipino community--- one of our carols was in Tagalog! This was very interesting to hear, because of the rhythm of the language, and the fact that the Filipinos were swaying and clapping to the music when they sang. Then, being sanctified, went back home, to sleep, to wake up on Christmas morning. To go to work. I said hello to Mr. Cratchit, and during the day found out from my students that the tradition here in Japan is to eat Christmas cake, and fried chicken. KENTUCKY FRIED CHICKEN---yeah, that's right, KFC--- if they can get it. Not goose. Not ham. NOT turkey.

KFC.

Well, have a happy holiday, no matter what you eat, and try to eat some for me. Even if it is fried chicken.

Thursday, December 22, 2005

Picture this

A few weeks ago, I ran into a small, but wonderful used book and antique print store. The variety of books is huge, considering the size, but, alas, all the tomes are in Japanese. So, I can't read them, yet. But, I can purchase reproduction prints of the ukiyo-e era, and they are very nice. I can also purchase the real thing, for a much higher price. But hey, since I am here, I will save up my pennies, and purchase a few.* Currently, I have a number of repros which I put up in my room.

I very much like the prints of Hiroshige, and the above is one of his most famous. An origional would cost dearly, but I got mine for only $8.00. My favourite is the one here:


Pretty much summs up both Baltimore and Osaka.








*actually, I refer to the Japanese one yen coin, as "yennies", so perhaps I should say that, instead

Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Snow-saka


Today has the first snow of the winter season here in Osaka. When I woke up in the morining, I checked the weather online, and it said: "snow". Now, the Yahoo weather forcast for my area has been spotty, at best, so when I read that, I was skeptical. Furthermore, the night before, there was a thunderstorm, which usually does not betide snow--- although, living in Baltimore as long as I have, I have witnessed lightning, thunder, and snow simutaneously.

Then, I heard excited shouts, young children voices, "Yuki! Yuki! Yuki ga furu!" (Snow! Snow! It's snowing!)
I went outside to investigate, and, indeed, white flakes dropping gently from the sky.

It's snowing!

Monday, December 19, 2005

I guess I live here now.

I realized today that I unconsciously make my way to my building and my specific appartment now. While there is much in the city I still find to be bewildering, there is a lot more that is falling into place. I am establishing rhythms, forming habits, making cognitive maps. I am even beginning to have a feel for the overall neighborhood and its habits, and recognizing some of the locals.

Last week I was walking around a part of Osaka where tourists never go, and hardly any foreigners either, and for the first time, I felt like I really lived here. Comfort comes when you begin to make it your own city, with your own paths, which many may share, but none entirely duplicate. I have been here two months, already, and I feel like I have a new home. Very strange, as it is 9000 miles from what I used to know.

Sunday, December 18, 2005

Goin' to the Chapel....

But, certainly not to get married.

For the first time in a few months, I went to church. It has been a long time looking for a mass I can go to, with my weird schedual. When I first got here, I called about five different Catholic churches, hoping to find one that had mass at a time I could go to it. Most of the Churches work on the idea that people do not work Sundays, or that, if they do, it is after 12pm. Most of the services on Sunday are at 9 am, or 10 am, and there is a mass in English at the St. Mary's Cathedral at 2pm. Because I am working from 7am to 3pm, none of these options are available to me. Last week, I found out that the only service I could attend, at 6.30 pm on a Saturday; it is, however, in Japanese.

But, a mass is a mass, and if Charles IV was ready to go to one for Paris, then I can go to one in nihongo. It is always strange to attend a religious service that is not in your native toungue, however. I have been to French masses, and I have been to ones in Spanish. Each language puts a distinct spin on how their prayers, and thus makes it meaningful to that culture, and a real window into the pysche (and I use this word in both senses)of the people it serves. This is true of the Japanese mass as well.

The ritual of the Latin Rite does not change from country to country, only the the translation of the words. You can follow along, if you are familiar with the idea, of what is happening, and, strangely enough, the rythm of every mass, no matter what language spoken, is still the same: the Gregorian chant--- even in Japan. But there are some differences: they do not shake hands at the sign of peace,for example; however, there is a reverential bow. And, at Communion, few people recieved, but all went up for blessing. Since I have not had Communion in a while, I took it. It is my custom, like many American Catholics, to do so. Here, I think I was the only one, beside the priest, who did. Even the woman (proabably a nun, she had the look) who did the most to assist Father (what do you call a priest in Japanese?) at the mass probably did not take Communion. But she was nice enough to inform me at the end of the service, in fractured English, that there was a mass in English. At some point, my Japanese will be good enough that I can tell her that it is impossible for me to go to that mass. However, by the time I reach that stage, I may not have a problem with my schedual conflicting with the English mass time, or I may not even be in Osaka to tell her.

Christmas Eve is another matter. I can go at 10pm--- not quite Midnnight Mass, but close enough not to bicker--- and in English to boot. Then, it will be back to Japanese for a while. I intend to take my prayer book with me, as it has the Order of the Mass in it, and I can follow along, chanting in English, or Latin or Japanese or Assyrian or whatever the Holy Spirit strikes me.

Thursday, December 15, 2005

In it for the Long Haul

Well, Nova Corporation must like me, as I passed review, and am now off probation. The company will now pay me a full salary, and I now get to be trained to teach grammar, vocabulary, pronunciation courses, as well as Kid's courses. When I first learned that Nova taught children, I was a little hesitant. After all, I have not had too many encounters with young children lately, as my family is small, my brother has no kids, or at least none I know about, and many of the people I know also are childless. However, there are a few in the Multi-Media center who have recently recieved the training, and are really jazzed about it. So, it might not be so bad.

Also coming along is my Japanese language study. Many of you know I made a fair attempt to do some work before coming to Japan, but the course I currently study has much more structure, and homework, to boot. Plus, one of the instructors is really cute. I am also taught completely in Japanese, which is giving me a taste of my own medicine. And, it has really made me sympathise with beginner students of ESL. My teaching of this level, at least for Japanese students, has gotten much better. I am far more willing to drill and to go over simple points, and I have learned some pedagogic tools which, in imitation of my Nihongo instructors, seem to make an impact on my English students,aiding in their overall comprehension of the language lessons. I really feel, in this way, I am learning twice, even three times; learning language, learning method, learning patience. I also feel less overwhelmed by the country, now that I have a few basic things at my command. By the time I come to visit, I should speak a fair amount, so watch out Sushi Ya!

I also found Osaka's magic store; more on this soon.

Monday, December 12, 2005

Sleepy Time

Some of you may wonder why I post so early in the morning(or so late at night). Please remember that I am quite a few hours ahead of you in the States, so, my time signature will reflect that. Yes, as you slumber, I amble. While you race about in your busy day, I am visiting the land of Nod.

On another note, the Osaka Public Library is great! I have gotten several biographies there, including one on Cicero and of Che, and am currently reading a Star Wars book--- old habits die hard. I can keep up with the lies the press doles out as well; they have a subscription to many newspapers, including the New York Times. The library has many books in English, a section large enough to rival small public libraries back home, and it has A/V material, cds, videos, etc. Oh, it also has some books in Japanese.

Oh, tannenbaum!

The custom of the Christmas tree dates back to two pagan traditions, one Norse, the other Roman. Both cultures thought of the tree as a symbol of everlasting life, even through the darkest days of the winter night. Here in Japan, there are lit trees everywhere.
On Friday, my Japanese freind and I went to an outdoor festival with a big tree:




This tree is in an underground mall in the Namba region of Osaka.



As I looked at the tree Friday, it blinked in and out with its lights in the chilly air, and, for a moment, with the cheer of the gluewine in me, I could imagine I was back home
More photos later.

Thursday, December 08, 2005

It's beginning to look a lot like...

Life here is becoming less and less bewildering. There are certain aspects of Japanese language and culture that are actually more sensible than what I know from the English speaking world, and many that make sens for here. By this I mean that, while it may not seem to make sense immediately, because it works here then it must have a certain sensibility to it that is quite normal. For example, using Christmas as a winter holiday. You see Christmas decorations everywhere, and Christmas songs, and the malls are decked with, well, not holly, but garland nonetheless. There are trees everywhere. And nary a Christian in sight.

However, it relieves the blahs of winter, and because of this, it makes sense to do it. And, so we have as much decoration as back home. I will have to work Christmas day, but not being home with my Mom and Dad, it will not make a difference to me. I am forced to re-think the holiday, and what it means to me personally.

More thoughts on this phenonmenon later.

Monday, December 05, 2005

I'm back!

hello everyone in cyberspace!
finally, I am back to the interweb after a long absence. I have had internet access available in the appartment for a while, but the last leg of a process of inertia and laziness has been lapped. In order for my laptop to be fitted for a cable, i needed to get a lan card. now, you say to yourself, "well, that shouldn't be too hard, just go and get it."
yah, but before that, i needed windows. and that took a while too. but, no more excuses, i can write and show pictures from the comfort of my own room now.
pictures are soon to come.